Hi.
There is an article on how to repair a loose tile at http://www.thetiledoctor.com/repair/repairtile.cfm
However, I need more info and details on how to perform this.
For example, what epoxy material to use, and the like.
Images would help me understand better.

This might be a ("band-aid") temporary repair, for a single loose tile, but that tile will still sound hollow when tapped on, as well as being fragile. If your a "surgeon" you might get by, but effectively getting enough epoxy around the loose tile to secure it would require many holes and then these holes would need re-grouting any way, so why not just remove the tile and repair it properly. If you have a lot of tiles like this, you're driving down an endless road. Armen Tavy, "IRTGIM"

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Armen Tavy

I have a similar problem with my tile flooring. I probably have 20 to 30 tiles that "crunch" when you walk on them and a few that have cracked. They are 14x14 clay tile from Venezuela and are nop longer made in that pattern. I was going to try this epoxy injection method to repair the loose tiles. I have about 500 sq ft of this tile in my house.

Do you have any recommendations or am I destined to replace them all.

You obviously have read what I have already written about this dilemma. We in the Tile Industry are trying to find a way to get the message out to, all, about the precautions and tiling techniques involved in installing tile correctly. It's just not as simple as mixing a little Thin-Set Mortar and then placing a tile on the mortar. Floor preparation, Mortar and Trowel selection, are the most important before the installation is started, then proper tiling techniques must be observed to insure a permanent installation one can be proud of. Your issues can be temporarily resolved with "band-aid" remedies if you like wasting time and money. Loose tiles can mean many different things. Are they hollow sounding, or do they actually move, or tip when walked on? Are the grout joints cracked, is the grout "crumbling". A Band-Aid treatment for one or two tiles might work, 20 or 30 tiles are a more serious matter. You should try to remove the grout around these tiles, and if they are loose enough lift them out, if not, use a small flexible putty knife to try to loosen them a bit more so you can lift them out. Check the amount of mortar that is left on the back of the tile/s and remove/scrape the mortar off, so you can re-install the tiles after the mortar on the floor is also removed. These "saved" tiles need to be re-installed correctly this time. Needd help, just ask. I'm not familiar with these tiles, and if they are "concave" on their bottoms, back filling is prudent before re-installation. There are a couple of "electric" tools for grout removal. Google "Grout Grabber" or a (discounted) "Fein Multipurpose" simple to use tool with a clever "vibrating" grout remover blade at: http://www.toolking.com/category/customer-service.aspx "TIRTGIM", Armen Tavy

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Armen Tavy

Hello Sir,

I’ve a bit of a problem with my kitchen floor tile.

Situation:

Kitchen floor 12 x 12 ceramic tile is lifting/tenting, tiled area is 10’ x 18’. Of this, an area of about 18 sq/ft is affected; lifted or tented tiles are adjacent. The grout is beginning to crack.

Problem:

How to reset the existing tiles as the color and style of the tiles are no longer being manufactured?

What I’ve discovered, so far:

In examining the tiled floor I couldn’t see any evidence that there was any allowance in the laying of the tile field for normal expansion and contraction. The tile field extends right up to the wall on one side and the cabinets on the other. I assume that this is part of the problem. I cut (w/ a grout saw) around the perimeter of one tile in the middle of the field of loose tiles and was able to lift it up intact. The thinset used to put these tiles down has solidly adhered to the tile. There is no adhesion whatsoever to the concrete slab that makes up the floor beneath. I’ve dripped a bit of water onto the slab and there doesn’t appear to be any absorption. So, am I wrong to assume that somehow the slabs concrete was sealed and could that be the cause of the thinset not adhering to the slab? All loose tiles should come up pretty well the same.

An idea:

If I were to cut all of the grout in the affected area (guess I’d have to buy a new tool, doggone-it); lift the tiles while marking them as to position and orientation; sand the exposed concrete slab surface to enhance adhesion; then, glue the old tiles back in the same place and orientation as before; then grout. I would assume that I’d have to make an allowance for expansion/contraction, is there a flexible grout?

Would that work, would that be a good fix considering that the area in question is in a high traffic area? If so, what would be a good adhesive to use; would thickened epoxy do the job?


I have tried to get local tile contractors to look at the job; however, when I broach the idea of a repair instead of a complete re-do, they lose interest and don’t call back. Could you/would you impart a bit of advice?

Regards,

Don Eckert
Alamogordo, New Mexico

How are things in Alamogordo? It has to have a unique origin.

The most perplexing dilemma our tile Industry faces today is the deplorable conditions of cement slabs we are asked to tile over. "BOND BREAKERS" galore, from curing agents, Magnesium float machines, to debris by other trades and to many other contaminates to mention. That is why "Slip Sheets" aka Tile Underlayment Membranes are getting to be the norm. Soooooooooo many job failures to mention from a few hundred dollars to the 30 thousand dollars plus. The fact that your mortar did not stick to the slab was partially to blame for the "tenting". Because there was no full mechanical bond to the slab the tile expanded independently. Yes, expansion and "soft joints" here and there plus "soft joints" around perimeter walls or air spaces under baseboards to allow for expansion should be a pre-requisite in every installation, "just in case". However, "Hindsight" is always an afterthought.

Your first decision is whether or not to remove all the tiles or just the trouble ones, I think you should do it all, but then it's up to you. If the tiles come up intact plus thin-set mortar, you could re-install them again if you can remove the mortar off the backs of the tiles. I could do it, because I have “the know how”, and the tools, but can you? And if not, could you find someone who will? The extra thickness will be a problem if you don't, or you could remove all the tiles and re-install them without removing any mortar off their backs. They will just be a little thicker. I certainly would not set them again with mortar over the same slab without first installing a tile underlayment membrane, and there are many to choose from.

If you decide to go all the way, I will give you these thoughts to weigh and ponder. Divide your room into 4 quadrants to salvage the highest number of old tiles for a re-install. You will have to choose a tile underlayment membrane and install it in each quadrant as you proceed. Each section will be tiled independently and perimeter soft joints or baseboard removal and re-installation on top of the tiles should give you enough expansion so this does not happen again. Get some duct tape and a magic marker and cut a small swatch of tape and number every tile before removal. Of course you will need a detailed drawing showing the location of each numbered tile. Install the membrane of choice and then set your tiles with a quality name brand thin-set mortar, suitable for your tile installation. Remember, the backs of your tiles will be flat this time instead of in a typical 2 dimensional grid pattern and because of this they will take a bit more patience to re-install.

If your tiles run into stationary objects not related to the perimeter, a soft grout joint should be considered using a colored tile caulk.

The installation is basically a normal one, set each tile keeping in mind that the tiles have to align with the existing tiles and grout joints in the adjacent quadrant/s where the tiles have not been removed as yet. Tile each quadrant separately (side by side, not opposing corners). Use a 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" trowel to set your tiles. "Key your mortar into the substrate" and spread your mortar in neat "corn rows" left to right, no swirls please. Press each tile in and push forward a half inch and then pull it back. Tap them in with a rubber grout float to seat them. Of course, use spacers to maintain alignment. Re-setting select tiles would be the same procedure. The underlayment of choice would have to be limited to the thinnest available, and mine, TAVY Thin-Skin", and “Protecto Wrap” would probably be the thinnest. Good Luck, Armen Tavy

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Armen Tavy