http://ceramictec.com/ceramic-tile-shower-orlando-florida-rip-out-prep-waterproofing-install

Rip Out, Prep, Waterproofing, Install Tile:

We completed a hall bath shower rip out & replace in Orlando for a Architect we know. This is his personal home and is located in Central Florida and is about 30 years old. The shower pan was done incorrectly and it didn’t have a pre-slope under the liner, had a drain directly connected to the drain pipe and was nailed at the bottom through the liner to the studs. Whoever built this shower pan had no idea on how to build a properly waterproofed traditional pre slope pan & liner. Where would the water go that saturates the mud bed without having weep holes? Something us professionals don’t like seeing.

Being a Tile Contractor in Tampa & Orlando there was something else I didn’t like seeing, it was the way they did a fake wall mud tile job look. They pretty much put cement board over top drywall and used mastic with 4×4 wall tile and a mud cap A-4200. It gives the look of a built out mud wall but not an actual good way of doing it. Mastic is NEVER good in a shower or wet area and can re-emulsify when wet over time. We demoed the whole old shower area, removing the wall tile, cementboard, old drywall, shower floor tile, mud bed, liner & drain.

We then installed the new cement board, mesh taped the joints and used thinset over them. Installed a new Ebbe drain riser and drain and a new mud bed using Laticrete 3701 fortified mortar bed. The 3701 is a thick-bed mortar that is exceptionally strong and resistant to weather, frost, thermal and physical shock, pre blended and perfect for a job like this. After the cement board and mesh tape was up and the Mud bed cured we used HydroBan liquid waterproofing on the shower pan and up the walls and over the shower curb. We used the divot method to tie the waterproofing into the clamping ring drain, and the filled the divot, packed with pea gravel, mud and more HydroBan over it...............

* to read the rest please go to our website blog:
http://ceramictec.com/ceramic-tile-shower-orlando-florida-rip-out-prep-waterproofing-install



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http://ceramictec.com/to-diy-tile-or-not-to-diy-tile

That is the question…

So you’re planning on doing a DIY tile job huh? It’s not for everyone and it sure isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s fun to plan and have a vision of doing your own tile work be it a small foyer, back splash, back patio/lanai or even a shower area. But there’s more to it then just sticking some square tiles on the wall or floor in rows. Here in Florida there is so much tile being installed some of the fly by night installers moonlighting as tile setters aren’t really that good. You can’t do a good, quality tile job in a few weeks of reading, you need to have the years of knowledge that a “Professional” tile setter has. This from being on jobs and seeing installation techniques of various types of tile, or learning from another pro on the job over the years of work.

If you do decide to go at it yourself you will require the proper tools for the job. You will need to go out and purchase a good amount of specialty tools that most tile setter already have and own. Things like a quality wet saw, maybe you can rent one from the local rental store, but will the blade be what you need for the type of tile you are cutting? You will also need to purchase items like trowels, a speed square, chalk line, level, maybe some straight edges, ledger boards, spacers, rubbing stones, nippers, a razor knife, hole saw, mixing drill, mixing paddle, angle grinder, and so on.

Other things you will need to understand are, which trowels to use, what will I use to cut which type of tile, will a bar snap cutter cut porcelain or do I need a wet saw. Can I use an angle grinder on Travertine or do I need a special blade for the wet saw. Then figure out how your floor was constructed and make sure you have the proper deflection for the tile your installing. If you’re on a slab you will need to figure out if your hairline cracks are slab crack or are they control joints. Then you will need to understand if you need a crack membrane on the whole floor or can you get away with just applying it to just bridge the cracks. Maybe an uncoupling membrane would work, how could I lay out this wall or floor to line up the grout joints to look good.

to read the full article go to our website: http://ceramictec.com/to-diy-tile-or-not-to-diy-tile


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read full article here with pictures:http://ceramictec.com/a-moldy-situation-info-on-mold

* This safety article was sent to me and used with permission from a well respected tile contractor I know. With me being a Tile Contractor in Florida I know how bad mold is from seeing it in so many failed showers we replace here. This article has good info on it and I think it will help Florida homeowners understand about mold, it’s dangers and the Importance of a Waterproofed Shower.

http://www.ceramictec.com

______________________________________________________________

By Juan F. Garcia
Redrock Tile and Stone


Of the many hazards that face us in remodeling projects, none seem to be more misunderstood than properly managing and cleaning up mold. This article will attempt to provide an inclusive source of information on mold, starting from a description of mold, why it is a problem, why it is prevalent in showers, what is the proper way to clean it up, and how to prevent it from coming back.

What is mold?

Mold is usually seen as the blackish green stuff growing in that forgotten container of leftover food in the back of your refrigerator. You know the one, last month’s dinner with the neighbor’s, or the bag of fruit that the kids were supposed to throw away last week. How did it get there? It certainly wasn’t there when you put the food in the refrigerator. Or was it?

Mold is a naturally occurring organism and is an essential part of the decomposition and decay of organic matter. Mold is a member of the fungus family, the same as mushrooms. It thrives primarily in moist and warm environments however can even be found in cooler temperatures, such as your refrigerator. Its tiny spores are ever present in the air and it only takes one spore, with the right conditions to begin to multiply. Once present on organic matter, mold spores, like seeds, begin to germinate and grow. The result is the slimy or fuzzy stuff seen on the surface. It can range in colors from white to beige, brown, and black or colors of red, green and purple.

Why is mold a problem?

Regardless of what you may have been told, mold, in and of its self, is NOT toxic. The “toxic black mold” as seen in the media and regurgitated by some businesses is a way of duping the uneducated public into a panacea. Certain types of mold, however, can produce substances known as mycotoxins, which are toxic. Ingestion, or eating, of mycotoxins is known to cause illness.

Molds have been known to cause some health problems. Allergy like symptoms such as congestion, sneezing, irritated nose, throat, and eyes, and coughing may have be attributed to inhalation and/or ingestion of mold or mold spores. Some individuals, when exposed, show no symptoms at all. Individuals such as young children, the elderly, those already suffering from asthma, and those with suppressed immune systems may be more susceptible to sickness from mold exposure. The exposure limits to mold for certain health effects are not conclusive; hence, it is not specifically regulated under OSHA.

Mold is not only unsightly; it is also a problem in building systems due to its primary purpose, to decompose organic matter. Mold laden building materials such as plywood sub floors and floor/wall framing can deteriorate beyond usability and require replacement. Severely deteriorated building systems can affect the structural integrity of the entire structure. Many times the effects of the deterioration are hidden behind walls or under surface materials and are not discovered until there is a problem.

Why is mold prevalent in showers?

Besides the refrigerator, its next best environment for growth is in a bathroom. What better place to grow than in a warm and moist environment. Perhaps you have seen some mold growing around the bathroom. Maybe somewhere in the far corner, or up on the ceiling where you normally don’t clean. Just as your refrigerator science experiment, mold has gotten in there, uninvited. Could it also be hiding behind your shower walls?

Have you ever calculated how much “rainfall” your shower gets per year? If you take one 12 minute shower per day in a 48 inch x 48 inch shower and your shower head flows at 2.5 gpm (gallons per minute), you have almost 1100 inches of rainfall equivalent per year – in your shower! Rain forests do not get that much water and look at the fungi that grow there. Is your shower designed to withstand that type of water exposure? Unfortunately, many poorly constructed showers are prevalent in homes today.

What is the proper way to clean mold contamination?

Surface molds, as seen in many bathrooms, is easily handled with over-the-counter disinfectants and wiped away during routine cleaning. If your cleaning is not so routine or you have mold problems from a flood or a poorly designed shower then here are some guidelines to follow for proper cleanup. As with all cleanup operations, you need to consider your skills, your liability, and your patience. In some cases, it is advisable to hire a professional contractor who has the experience, training, and equipment to properly clean up the mold.

Assuming you have stopped the cause of the moisture where the mold is growing, the first order of business in mold remediation is wearing proper personal protective equipment. At a minimum you should have an N95 respirator, rubber gloves, and splash proof goggles. Depending on the severity of the mold contamination, a full face air-purifying respirator may be needed, and a full body protective suit can be worn.

Secondly, all remediation should be done using wet methods such as a sponge or mop and a wet/dry HEPA filtered vacuum. The key with these tools is to eliminate getting the mold and mold spores airborne. Obviously, water will be the primary “wet” tool and some type of disinfectant. There a number of commercially available disinfectants on the market but most sources suggest a chlorine bleach solution with a ratio of 1 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water. Water takes the shape of its container so controlling cleanup water may be the next step in the remediation process. Heavy (6 mil) polyethylene plastic sheeting properly taped to floors, walls, and ceiling is one way to contain the overflow of contaminated water and cleanup solution.

Another recommendation in mold remediation is creating a containment barrier, usually of heavy (6 mil) polyethylene plastic sheeting that isolates the contaminated area from the rest of the dwelling. This setup may require airlock type chambers and negative air filtration units. If the mold is so severe or widespread that this type of containment system is needed, it’s probably time to hire a professional.

Lastly, if the mold cannot be adequately cleaned up or the building material is beyond salvaging, it is best to remove the building material and rebuild with new material. Any material that is severely contaminated with mold should be carefully handled, wrapped in plastic sheeting or heavy garbage bags to avoid spreading contamination, and properly disposed of.

How do you prevent mold from coming back?

Now that you are educated and have properly handled your mold problem, the final step is to prevent mold from growing again. If your dwelling has required some type remodel, now is the time to rebuild using industry specific techniques and modern materials available to you. A properly constructed shower that utilizes surface applied moisture barriers is becoming the widely accepted method for controlling moisture at the surface and eliminating the buildup of moisture in hidden areas.

Since mold is ever present in our environments, the best solution is to reduce the moisture on the building material where it likes to grow. Next to proper construction, here are some steps that will prevent any future mold problems.

1. Wipe or squeegee water from surfaces.
2. Install a fan or dehumidifier in location where moisture is present.
3. Weekly cleaning of surfaces with a disinfectant.
4. Monthly checking of surfaces for cracks, chips, or gaps where water may collect.
5. Fix any problems on those surfaces or where discoloration beneath surfaces is seen.



References

http://www.cdc.gov/mold/strats_fungal_growth.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mold_growth,_assessment,_and_remediation

http://www.aiha.org/news-pubs/newsroom/Documents/Facts%20about%20Mold.pdf

http://www.epa.gov/mold/mold_remediation.html

http://www.epa.gov/mold/moldguide.html

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/molds/

http://www.nap.edu/openbook.php?isbn=0309091934

Disclaimer: The purpose of this article is to provide the reader with a basic understanding of health and safety issues related to the topic. The reader assumes full responsibility for their own actions and will not hold the author liable or responsible for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information, product or process disclosed in this article or for any injury or illness to themselves or others arising from information derived from this article.

http://ceramictec.com/commonly-used-tile-in-florida-definition


At Ceramictec we install the finest selection of name brand tile with the widest selection of patterns, textures, sizes and colors. No matter what your decor or color scheme we can help you find the perfect tile for your home decorating.

* Stain Resistant
* Scratch Resistant
* Fire Resistant
* Doesn’t Fade from Sun Light
* Easy to Clean

Porcelain Tile — Is a tile that is generally made by the dust pressed method from porcelain clays which result in a tile that is dense, impervious, fine grained and smooth, with a sharply formed face. Porcelain tiles usually have a much lower water absorption rate (less than 0.5%) than non-porcelain tiles making them frost resistant or frost-proof. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and more wear and damage resistant than non-porcelain ceramic tiles, making them suitable for any application from light traffic to the heaviest residential and light commercial traffic. Full body/though body porcelain tiles carry the color and pattern through the entire thickness of the tile making them virtually impervious to wear and are suitable for any application from residential to the highest traffic commercial or industrial applications. Porcelain tiles are available in matte, unglazed or a high polished finish.

Glazed Tile — Most of the common ceramic floor tiles have either a glazed, or unglazed surface. The glazed tiles have a special ceramic coating that is applied to the body of the tile and then fired under high heat. The glazing becomes hard.

Unglazed Floor Tile — There is no glazing or any other coating applied to these tiles. Because these tiles are porous it is recommended that a special penetrating sealant be used to maintain this type of floors and to help prevent stains from seeping into the pores of the tiles. Their color is the same on the face of the tile as it is on the back resulting in very durable tiles that do not show the effects of heavy traffic.

Marble — Marble is a natural product and is not made in a factory. For this reason no two pieces of marble look the same and the veining is a natural characteristic in all marble. One of the more popular marble tile in Florida is Travertine. There are special marble sealants to help protect from staining of the face. Extra care should be used when cleaning and all abrasives and acidic cleaners should never be used when cleaning. Even colas, some juices, and possibly ammonia may destroy the marble finish.

Granite — This is another natural stone and is not manufactured in a factory. Granite can be used indoors or outdoors and is less porous than marble. It is still recommended that you use a sealant to protect the finish from staining.

Grout — Grout is a mixture of cement and a color additive. For tile floors with wider spaces between each tile sand is added to the grout. Also, a liquid latex additive can be added to the grout to give better resiliency to the grouted areas. For ease of maintenance a penetrating sealant should be used on the grout. It should be noted you may see a change in color of your grout over time. To stop this we highly recommend an upgrade to an epoxy grout.

Some of the other important things we can help with when selecting a tile floor is the slip-resistance, the size and color of the grout joints, the thickness of the tile, height variations from room to room, size of the tile, suitability of the subfloor, and cleaning of the tile.

If your interested in getting a Free Estimate Please Contact Us.


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http://ceramictec.com/florida-bathroom-floor-tile-maintenance-color-size-texture-design

For Florida Bathroom Floor Tiles....

Selecting tile for your Florida bathroom is an area where I feel you should adhere to some basic principals. But, this is also an area where you can let your imagination shine. Various sizes, colors, and textures combined can make your bathroom truly a work of art!

Let’s begin.

* First, you should consider maintenance and ease of such.
* Second, you should consider texture and where to place it.
* Third, colors.
* Fourth, design and design elements consistent with the interior flavor or theme of your home or space.
* Maintenance is often overlooked at the expense of loss of luster and shine over a period of time. Nothing looks worse than a dull and well worn Travertine.

My advice after having busting out many Travertine floors is to consider Granite, Ceramic, Porcelain, or Glass for the bathroom floor. Use a durable non porous easy to clean material. You can use Travertine but remember it needs to be sealed. As a floor surface this can build up if not maintained properly. Like Marble, Travertine is a soft material and requires maintenance and can be stained, scratched, and easily chipped.

Textures on the floors can add an immediate design element. Perhaps a textured material or natural stone placed strategically in the center of the floor or as a perimeter band. Running your floor tile on a diagonal or diamond pattern has the effect of making your room look larger. However, expect to pay anywhere from $1.00-2.00 extra and more for a diagonal diamond pattern per square foot.

Design elements will add to cost as well. As much as $5.00 or more per square foot can be expected. Textures such as tumbled Marble would best be suited on walls. Round Riverbed Stones work well on shower floors and offer somewhat of a therapeutic value. Tumbled Marble or another color of Natural Stone used as a color band if incorporated correctly adds excitement and an “out of the ordinary” point of interest.

Colors. Always remember when using Natural Stone the installation generally costs more because tile setters have to craft, shape, grind, polish and form many pieces of the material. More often than not, there are no pre-formed corners and edges as there are with ceramic tile. And, the process takes a lot more time. You’ll appreciate that more when shelling out more per square foot for the material alone.

Another point to remember is that almost any tile including Natural Stone can have a pattern! You really need to open up a few boxes to determine if you may run into an issue here.For instance, some time ago we installed a Walnut Travertine shower and walls. As I removed tile from the boxes and it was placed on the wall, we could clearly see we had reassembled the cut slab straight out of the box. This is unusual but it happens. In other cases the same grain or flow of colors in Natural Stone be it Granite, Marble, Sandstone, Travertine, and Gemstone may not look good. Dark tile areas might need to be distributed within lighter tiles so you don’t wind up with too many dark or light tiles in one area.

If you are a DIY’er, when setting Travertine floors or walls be sure to use a thinset mortar that closely matches the tile surface color. Lighter Travertine should be placed with white thinset mortar and darker or chocolate Travertine should be set with gray thinset mortar. This is because Travertine is a porous material and your thinset can actually show through the surface or push through on installation. This can appear as a stain.

Design elements enhance the flavor of a space by using colors, textures, and sizes. A simple 6X6 shower enclosure will look much more appealing with a color stripe at the very least at about eye level. Using that same color stripe in other spots like the shower floor or inside a niche adds a little class.

There is a virtual universe of materials, colors, and textures at local distributors to flavor your next project. These additions add simple and attractive sophistication to an otherwise boring bathroom floor or shower.

The materials and ideas are as endless as your imagination and budget.

Be creative !

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http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/12/tile-to-tile-transition.html


Often here in Florida when doing a new tile installation we come across
other rooms that already have tile in them that we need to tile up to.
Usually a carpet or laminate area that the homeowner wants to remove and have new tile installed and the new tile we are installing will run into another tiled room (ie: kitchen, bath, hall bath, laundry, etc.).

So my common practice is to direct the customer/home owner to let me install an "Indian Blanket" cut tile pattern to divide those two tiled area's up to really define each area. Also if by chance the grout joints almost align it would look like a failed attempt to line up one tiled area to another new tiled area. Thus this method will break up the direct grout lines.

You could cut the corners off a field tile and install the diamonds side by side, use a few strips of 2x2 mosaic or even a deco tile. This can also be used when two types of tile run into each other in an open area like when trying to divide a straight laid tiled room into a diagonal tiled room.

here is a recent one we did where the homeowner wanted us to remove the carpet throughout the home and old tile in the front foyer and install a new 20x20 Porcelain tile in their town house/condo at the beach in Tarpon Springs, Florida. They wanted to leave the kitchen tile since it was new and they liked it.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_uYPR9g1pRtA/Sxk_sLpc_NI/AAAAAAAAAUE/aYPOArtbxjE/s1600-h/a.JPG
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_uYPR9g1pRtA/Sxk_4eK171I/AAAAAAAAAUU/9h35UCM8Zuo/s1600-h/c.JPG
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_uYPR9g1pRtA/SxlAFCdnnQI/AAAAAAAAAUk/ex3ReRU6vj8/s1600-h/e.JPG
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http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/11/importance-of-waterproofing-shower.html

Being a Professional Tile Contractor/Installer in Tampa, Florida and helping out on tile help forums I have noticed people are always asking about info on damaged showers and tubs for water damage, rot, grout discoloration, efflorescence, leaks or black mold.

The lack of a pan liner or surface membrane is usually the main reason these problems occur. Professional tile contractors who know the importance of a properly built shower with a pan liner & pre-slope, a bonded waterproofing sheet membrane or a liquid applied membrane.

Mold and rot occur when water gets absorbed into the grout and then seeps into the cementboard or drywall and then starts rotting the studs. Also when drywall is used the problems are even worse because the mold feeds on the paper face of the drywall. Mold loves cellulose and spreads throughout the damp wet area behind your wall. As the leak goes unnoticed the damage and mold become worse.

When a shower liner is used without a pre-slope the water sits in the mud pan and slowly deteriorates/breaks down the mud bed or fills with mold/sludge. Sometimes the weep holes then become clogged with calcium deposits and efflorescence forms on the grout joints from the water drying up through the grout to the surface. A bonded surface membrane will solve these problems.

While we still do and have been doing traditional pan liners for as long back as I have been doing tile for (21 years), newer, updated ways of waterproofing a shower have been developed like Schluter Kerdi, Noble TS, Laticrete HydroBan & Custom Building Products Redgard.
All excellent surface applied waterproofing membranes.

I tell customers it's good to spend the extra money now to do it right or you will spend 3 times the money tearing it out a few years later by doing it wrong.




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bathroom, Bradenton, Brandon, Florida, Hillsborough, hydroban, kerdi, Leak, Noble, Orlando, Pinellas, Polk, redgard, Sarasota, schluter, Seminole, Shower, st. pete, Tampa, waterproofing

http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/10/tile-selection-in-florida.html

Ceramic, Porcelain, Marble or Stone?

The selection of tile is almost limitless, especially here in Florida where there are so many domestic and imported tile from around the world shipped here.
Many homeowners are taking the selection of their tile more seriously than ever before. The old traditional look of 4x4 or 6x6 ceramics on the walls and floors is falling to the wayside as consumers look for the perfect tile for their projects.

Then, of course, comes the question: What is the best choice?
Tiles come in a wide variety of materials including clay, porcelain, and even glass among other choices. The durability of tile is graded in hardness. The more dense the tile, the harder the finished surface is. Porcelain, for instance, is the best tile in terms of density and hardness. Porcelain tile has color all the way through the tile versus screen print or glazed tiles, which are basically painted only on the surface. Porcelain will lasts longer with fewer problems with wear. Porcelain is also preferred for outside installations because it is more frost resistant.

Marble and stone are in a class all by themselves. Natural stone tile require more care in selection and maintenance. Installation of these materials is more labor intensive requiring a greater degree of skill and know-how to install them. Prices for stone materials are typically higher than ceramic or porcelain tiles and installation costs reflect the degree of difficulty to install them. Stone tile bring nature into your Florida home. They add a feeling of luxury and permanency. Granite counter tops in kitchens and baths combined with a tumbled marble backs plash make for a classy look and feel to any Florida home.

The tile you select for your project is just as important as the installer. Leave some money in your budget for a quality tile job. Once installed, tile can't be changed as easily as your paint color. Consider all the options and textures for tile and plan to spend a day or two looking at several different distributors. Be careful of discount tile, as it is sometimes inferior in quality and ultimately will make for a bad tile job. Remember, you get what you pay for. Don't skimp on your tile project. It will costs much more down the road to repair or replace your tile if done incorrectly and cheap.


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http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/10/grout-and-sealers-for-tile.html

Grout and Sealers for Tile.........
since we are a Ceramic, Quarry, Saltillo, Porcelain & Travertine
Tile Contractor in Florida these questions come up to us a lot
from Homeowners, Builders, Architects & Customers.

I hope this will explain to you some of the differences.

Grout:

Grout for ceramic tile is a cement-based bonding material used for filling joints between tiles. The space left between tiles to be filled is called a grout joint. The grout joint between the tiles is usually very porous, therefore, it needs to be sealed and maintained properly to prevent stains and discoloration. Protected tile and grout for ceramic tile will be easier to clean, more resistant staining, and provide a safer and healthier environment.

Types of grout for ceramic tile:

There are four basic types of grout for ceramic tile: Unsanded, fine sanded, quarry type and epoxy.

* Unsanded grout for ceramic tile: This is used for wall tiles where the grout joint is less than 1/8" wide.
* Finely Sanded grout for ceramic tile: This is used for floor tiles where the joints are 1/8" to 3/8" wide.
* Quarry-type grout for ceramic tile: This is the same as finely sanded grout for ceramic tiles except that a coarser grade of sand is used. The quarry-type grout for ceramic tile is used for joints that are 3/8" wide to 1/2" wide such as those used with Saltillo tiles.
* Epoxy grout for ceramic tile: This consists of an epoxy resin and hardener. Epoxy grout for ceramic tile is highly resistant to stains and chemicals and has a tremendous bonding strength. It is ideal for countertops and other areas susceptible to stains.

Some important considerations when choosing grout for ceramic tile:

* The wider the joint, the coarser the sand has to be. The sand prevents the grout for ceramic tile from shrinking and cracking.
* Grout for ceramic tiles comes in a wide variety of pre-mixed colors.
* The standard size of wall joint is 1/16" wide.
* The standard size of grout joint for floor tiles is 1/4" wide (finely sanded).
* Because floor tiles may vary slightly in size, grout joints in the floor tiles should not be smaller than 3/16". The installer will not be able to keep a straight line if the joint is too narrow.
* Impregnating sealers go into the grout joint and protect against water and oil-based stains.
* To prevent or limit staining problems in grout for ceramic tile, latex additives or a sealer is recommended. The latex additive forms a rubber-like film over the pores in the grout for ceramic tile, thus limiting its tendency to absorb stains. However, it is not completely stain proof.


Sealers:

A sealer is a liquid coat applied to the porous surface of the tile or grout, to protect them from oxidation, natural deterioration and day-to-day wear. Typically speaking, sealers are used to protect unglazed tiles and grouts from absorbing stains. Take a look at these guidelines, which are meant to get you started when it comes to choosing the right sealant for your ceramic or porcelain tile project:

Types:

There are two types of major types of sealers for ceramic tile or porcelain tile:

* Penetrating Sealers: These are absorbed into the tile or grout, forming a stain resistant shield just below the surface. Most penetrating sealers will not change the appearance of the tile.
* Surface Sealers: These are coated on the top of tile and grout, forming a non-porous, stain resistant sealant. The surface sealer will enhance the rich natural colors of the tile and adds a slight luster as well.

Important Considerations:

* The surface of most ceramic and porcelain tiles does not need to be sealed, although some require a light application of a penetrating sealer to fill the micro pores on the surface of the tile.
* However, all unglazed tiles including dense porcelains, should be sealed prior to grouting. It will prevent the grout from staining the tile, especially when a dark colored grout is being used with a light colored tile.
* Impregnating sealers go into the grout joint and protect against water and oil-based stains.
* Highly absorbent tiles such as hand made Saltillo tiles must be permanently sealed with either a penetrating or surface sealer.
* Use only penetrating sealers on dense, unglazed tiles such as quarries or porcelains.
* It is important to follow your distributor's recommendations as well as reading the instructions on the product being used.


It's a good idea to ask the experts about which type of sealer performs best for the type of tile you have for further details. If color change is a concern, or staining resistance, then these are the questions to put to your seller. Talk to your ceramic or porcelain sales rep, or your local retailer about the latest products for sealing ceramic tile, porcelain tile, quarry tile, saltillo tile or travertine tile. Ask about whether penetrating sealers vs. surface sealers with regard to your specific tile and aesthetic expectations & find out which is the best fit for your project.

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http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/10/shade-variation-in-ceramic-porcelain.html

Many popular styles of ceramic tiles are designed and manufactured to appear and feel like natural stone, imitating their rugged surface and color variation. It's important to understand these variations while selecting and laying out your ceramic tile flooring. You will always be provided with a wide range of glazes, different gloss levels, colors and texture variations to choose from. Your choice should depend on the conditions present at your chosen location, whether commercial or residential.

A commonly preferred choice is a solid color tile because of its consistent look. However, shade variation is a natural factor in all fired ceramic products. In fact, certain tiles will show a certain amount variation even within their dye lots.

For the benefit of better understanding on the part of the consumer, shade variation categories have been devised to enable consumers choose their desired shade spectrum. These shade variation ratings are mentioned on the back label of each sample within either of the low, moderate, high or random categories.

Here is a brief explanation of these categories:

Low: Consistent shade and texture
Moderate: Moderate shade and texture variation
High: High shade and texture variation
Random: Very high shade and texture variation

The color of the tiles body is determined by the color of the clay used to manufacture it. It is usually the clay available in the surrounding regions of the manufacturing facility or sometimes imported from another region. You can have a look at the body of tile to find out if the color is red or white. The quality, however, depends on the processing standards of the manufacturers rather than the color of the body.

Color variations will also be present within the manufacturer's samples of tile of the same color. Moreover, it can be seen throughout the installed tiles on counter tops, walls and floors.

a couple of good tile manufacturers we use at Ceramictec Tile Contractors in Florida are Crossville and Marazzi. to us they are a really good quality porcelain tile and made in the U.S.A.

http://www.crossvilleinc.com/index.ht
http://www.marazzitile.com/

If you have a particular tendency towards color consistency, then understanding the facts and talking to your tile contractor about your expectations can be a worthwhile pursuit.

some shade variations can be a beautiful thing.
like this full house tile renovation in Lakeland Florida for a customer.

http://i37.tinypic.com/2i96hu.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/2cy4h0x.jpg


www.ceramictec.com
ceramictec@comcast.net

http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/09/making-marble-soap-shelf.html

Customers here in Tampa & Orlando Florida are always asking me for a soap shelf to be installed in their new shower. Some go out a buy the basic ceramic corner shelf and want me to put that in. They are pretty big and usually the ceramic glaze colors doesn't match the nice porcelain or marble that is being installed in their shower.

So my advice to them is to let me make a corner soap shelf out of the marble or porcelain tile that I and using in the shower. I can also make them like this out of porcelain tile but it needs to be a through body porcelain tile for me to make that happen. http://i35.tinypic.com/vz8lyd.jpg

here is a quick picture tutorial on how I make
and install a marble corner soap shelf.

http://i34.tinypic.com/2ptrl9y.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/fa1uo5.jpg
http://i36.tinypic.com/264q6w5.jpg
http://i38.tinypic.com/21e9ttx.jpg

http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/09/kitchen-tile-refreshing-for-realtor.html

With home sales slow throughout the US some Realtor's are finding
ways to make the homes they are selling more appealing and fresh.

Here's a job I did for a Realtor I do work for in the Tampa, Florida area.

They were trying to spruce up a house to sell so I came up with
this refreshing inlay with leftover Porcelain tile they had from
the back splash extra tile laying in the garage.

I was able to figure out how much old ceramic tile to remove so it would
be symmetrical in the kitchen. I had 3 pieces of the 6x6 tile left over
and a few strips left from the cut 1/2"x1/2" mosaic sheets.

This same house has a full shower gut due to mold and rot from some
leaks with the builder not doing proper waterproofing.

You have to love a Florida shower with no liner or waterproofing!

Cant wait to rip that tile shower out....

http://i29.tinypic.com/21no9zr.jpg
http://i27.tinypic.com/14scubr.jpg
http://i31.tinypic.com/15ewr9x.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/n1qtzo.jpg
http://i25.tinypic.com/2zps6le.jpg



www.ceramictec.com
ceramictec@comcast.net

Tile Comparison for your Florida tile selection:

(Granite Tile - Marble Tile - Slate Tile - Pebble Tile – Glass Tile – Porcelain Tile)

Tile is the often choice for the surface of high-end applications.
They are averagely priced but they provide incomparable beauty
and elegance to your home.

If you are considering tile you should be aware of the general characteristics of all the tiles types out there and the options available to you including installation before making your final decision. Especially, when more and more applications are using tiles, you might need to consider a tile specific to your application.

The following table is a summary for the feature of a few types of tile.

Granite Tile:
Slippery Surface - High
Resistant to Breakage & Scratch- Average
Color - Good
Installation - Good
Resistant to Chemicals& Acids – Bad
Price - Fine

Marble Tile:
Slippery Surface - High
Resistant to Breakage & Scratch - Bad
Color - Good
Installation - Good
Resistant to Chemicals & Acids - Bad
Price - Fine

Slate Tile:
Slippery Surface - Average
Resistant to Breakage & Scratch - Bad
Color - Low
Installation - Good
Resistant to Chemicals & Acids - Bad
Price - Fine

Pebble Tile:
Slippery Surface - Good
Resistant to Breakage & Scratch - Good
Color - Good
Installation - Easy
Resistant to Chemicals & Acids - Good
Price – Average

Glass Tile:
Slippery Surface - High
Resistant to Breakage & Scratch - High
Color - Excellent
Installation - Hard
Resistant to Chemicals & Acids - Good
Price – High

Porcelain Tile:
Slippery Surface - Average
Resistant to Breakage & Scratch - Excellent
Color - Excellent
Installation - Easy
Resistant to Chemicals & Acids - Excellent
Price - Average

Also all tile feels hard, but some types of tile are actually harder than others.
Tile is rated by a series of standardized tests. The tests evaluate a tile's relative hardness (the Moh scale), its ability to stand up to wear and the percentage of water absorbed.

The Porcelain Enamel Institute hardness ratings are:

* Group I - Light Traffic: residential bathroom floors.
* Group II - Medium Traffic: home interiors where little abrasion occurs.
* Group III - Medium-Heavy Traffic: any home interior.
* Group IV - Heavy Traffic: homes or light to medium commercial areas.
* Group V- Extra Heavy Traffic: use it anywhere.

These ratings are important, but don't get too bogged down in analysis.
they serve to help you find the right tile for your application.


Based on the table shown above, the Porcelain tile is a very good choice for many applications like a Bathroom Shower, Garden Tub, Kitchen, Backsplash, Foyer, Lanai, Patio, Porch, Fireplace, Swimming Pool, Pool Deck, Fountain, etc.

Here in Florida, especially the area’s of Tampa, St. Pete, Sarasota, Lakeland, Orlando, Daytona & Jacksonville the porcelain tile is a very big seller and Ceramictec has installed it in a wide variety of applications.

Hope this will be helpful for your selection of a tile.

One way of making your Florida home standout in style is installing Travertine tile flooring. Having installed our fair share of Travertine tile in Florida in area's like Tampa, Lakeland, Sarasota, Orlando & Daytona, this style of flooring will work virtually everywhere in your home and the designs and styles are numerous which also makes it very versatile. The ranges of flooring are numerous and finding the perfect design to fit in with your decor is easy, however if you want to totally change your decor and try something new.

here are some Travertine flooring ideas you might not have considered.


What is Travertine:
To begin with, Travertine flooring is also known by several other names, some of the most common include Oriental alabaster, Egyptian alabaster, onyx marbles and Mexican onyx.

Travertine is a terrestrial sedimentary rock, formed by the precipitation of carbonate minerals from geothermally heated hot-springs. Similar (but more porous) deposits formed from ambient temperature water are known as tufa.

Travertine belongs to the larger family of stone called limestone also known as Calcium Carbonate. Marble is also a type of limestone that has had additional heat and pressure applied to it by the earth’s crust. Travertine is formed by minerals dissolving in ground water and then being deposited on the earth’s surface by rivers, natural springs, or geysers.

This beautiful flooring not only adds style to your home but also adds value.

Good and Bad Points:
As with all types of flooring Travertine has both good and bad points which have to be considered before going for this type of flooring. Its good points include being tough and hard wearing and there is a diverse range of styles to choose from as the stone comes in a wide range of some of the most beautiful colors imaginable.

The bad points are if you like a highly polished surface then they can become very slippery which could cause problems when laid in areas of high traffic and you have to avoid the use of acidic products on the unsealed stone. Acidic products which could spoil the beauty of this natural stone include the spillage of orange juice or vinegar. So great care has to be taken and thought has to be given when thinking of installing in the kitchen or dining area.

Travertine Ideas and Finishes:
Another plus which bodes well when it comes to diversity is the fact that the flooring comes in four different finishes, the choice of which to some extent will depend on where you intend to install the flooring.

One of the most beautiful finishes due to the way that the stone reflects the light is the polished, but as mentioned before this can be slippery. A smooth surface can be found with the honed stone due to its matte finish and brushed and tumbled stone has a slightly textured surface which holds a beauty entirely of its own.

Whether you are trying to portray a contemporary or rustic image, Travertine flooring is unbeatable. When going for the rustic look then a cream or natural colored stone that has a brushed surface and is left unfilled will indeed give just that.

Filled polished tiles are used for a more conservative look due to their highly reflective surface and look gorgeous when laid out over a larger open plan area. If you want a different look with travertine flooring you can choose to go mosaic and of course the rustic honed surface is the perfect choice when it comes to designing a mosaic floor.

Unusual Uses for Travertine Flooring:
Although traditionally Travertine flooring is of course used when it comes to installing new flooring it can also produce stunning effects when used for more unusual decoration.

Some uses which can show Travertine off at its best include using polished or tumbled travertine in the kitchen as a back splash. using matte stone on the floor of the shower stall and highly polished stone on the walls. Due to the natural beauty of a brushed or tumbled stone incorporating inconsistency and texture on each individual stone. one of my favorite patterns using travertine is the Chiseled Edge in a Versailles Pattern or the Honed Finish in a Brick Pattern.

visit our Ceramictec picture Gallery of ways to use Travertine Tile in Florida:

www.ceramictec.com

http://ceramictec.blogspot.com/2009/08/florida-condo-owners-tile-nightmare.html

Florida Condo Owner's Tile Nightmare. . . .
About 9 months ago I got a call from a Custom Builder I do work for.
He asked me to take a look at a friends job a handyman/painter/tile guy
did in a condo in Daytona Beach. I like this builder so I agreed to look at it.

Once the appointment was set up I met with the lady. She was a very nice,
a hard working single woman that relocated from up North to Florida.
Looking at the floor it was horrible with about 15 visual things I could see
wrong with it not counting other installation errors.

She was so upset at how the tile was installed and turned out and how the guy treated her at the end she had no clue what to do. Since she bought the tile/material, she didn't pay him for the labor since the job was disgusting.

The "handyman" then threatened to take her to court and put a lien on her condo if she didn't pay in cash. At that point I was furious and disgusted that someone could do this type of work to a nice woman like her, so I agreed to help her out.

I talked to a friend of mine in the area that sits on the County Construction
Codes Board and he told me to have her take him to small claims court.
From there I compiled a list of problems with pictures and gave to her.
The court date came, she went in with her list compiled from me and
pictures backing up the bad work.

Needless to say she won the case in about 5 minutes after the judge looked
at the tile pictures and list Ceramictec compiled for her. He (the handyman) needed to pay for removal of the tile and replacement of material & tile lost.
He didn't need to pay for the labor since she didn't pay him.

The handyman also didn't have his Occupational License or Insurance
that he told the condo management he had. Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Below you will see pictures with list of problems I gave her.



to whom it may concern,

After my Inspection of your tile job you had done by a Handyman
it is in my Professional experience I see the following mistakes that make
the job look less then professional and not acceptable.

1) Floor was laid out incorrectly and not square to the walls in your house.
he did not know how to square a floor or layout tile work.
2) This therefore made all cuts throughout your place cut at angles gaining in size and incorrect.
3) The main room of your place walls are square. he should have laid out off this area.
4) Cuts "in the U shape" at doors and corners are pieced together are not professionally cut.
5) Cuts at door jambs are too wide and not cut correctly.
6) Floor is not flat and has many dips and high tiles
7) Tile is set crooked /not straight with various size joints from 3/16" to a 1/2"
(unacceptable joint variances)
8) Grout was not properly grouted and joints have a lot of divots and low spots.
9) Grout residual not cleaned off of the tile. haze throughout job
10) Thinset sticking up through grout in some area's
11) Your wood baseboard will not cover several short cut tile along the wall.
12) Cuts along wall and other places vary in sizes. they should be all the same. this is due to (his) the crooked floor.
13) Tile in bathroom set on gloss tile did not bond and it is a 1/2" higher then main floor.
14) Bathroom floor tile should have been removed prior to tiling.
this created an elevated tile area.
15) Improper thinset was used to set porcelain tile. no bond to the porcelain tile.
16) I have taken (18) pictures to prove these statements.
17) the whole job is unacceptable and should be removed and done correctly
by a Qualified Florida Tile Contractor

here is the finished job after "Ceramictec" did it the correct way.