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spacerman has contributed to 456 posts out of 1080 total posts
(42.22%) in 774 days (0.59 posts per day).
20 Most recent posts:
Questions and Answers »
smudging in basalt tiles and tile grout issues Aug 30, 2010 12:09 AM
(Total replies: 3)
If it does not work to your satisfaction, there is a special "Grout Paint" designed for the purpose. Application is relatively easy and all you need is a steady hand and patience. The coating can last indefinately and it also seals the grout from future stains. The shade you need may be in the color charts of "Aqua Mix". Check it on-line for sources near you or for ordering. You could even change the present color, to any other color they may have in their line, in a single coat. Good Luck, Armen Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
smudging in basalt tiles and tile grout issues Aug 29, 2010 03:34 AM
(Total replies: 3)
The only culprit here is the obvious use of an organic adhesive to set the tiles. These types of adhesives can bleed thru porous stones and cause the marks or patterns you are describing. If that is the case, these tiles should not have been sealed until the "organics" had a chance to evaporate thru the stone. It can take as long as a year and in some instances may never go away. Solution? Not one that I can think of at this late date. Perhaps in time, it could still diminish some. Sorry. Colored Grout turning white and the word "acid" cleaning in the same sentence is self-explanatory. Acid cleaning will definitely "bleach" grout. There may be a slight chance of a restoring some, or most of the color, and that remedy would be to apply masonry Stone Enhancing Sealer to all the grout. It may require you to selectively seal only the grout, as top sealers and glazed tile surfaces do not like each other. Always test in an inconspicuous spot. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
replacing a 5 month old tile shower Aug 16, 2010 07:01 PM
(Total replies: 104)
Although there are "rules", the thickness can vary with the contractor. There is the vapor barrier, the wire lath the cement "brown coat" and then the stucco itself. Thicknesses can vary upwards to an inch or more. I would not consider hanging anything that was not fastened into a stud with lag screws (and their respective "shields" if there is no stud) under 3 inches in length and 5/16" to 3/8" in diameter. Gail, I am certain that we have passed any know record count of communications between questioners and avatars for the same project in any forum known to man or woman. 103 to be exact, plus today. Armen Armen Tavy
Installation Tips & Tricks »
Installing rectified tile Aug 16, 2010 06:45 PM
(Total replies: 3)
Dear U S, "Free" solicitations are not our cup of tea; however, you are welcome "to purchase" adverising space on our forum. 242,329 hits in two years for a fairly new help forum like this one can give you some good exposure, depending on how far you can travel from home base. I have contracted "one man" tile installations 3,000 miles from home base with all my expenses paid and full accomodations. That is the kind of work that pays the best providing you have the reliability reputation, the ability to be "creative", and are not just another tile installer. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Aug 16, 2010 at 06:46 PM
Questions and Answers »
Cooperativa Cermamica D'Imola Aug 16, 2010 03:09 AM
(Total replies: 1)
I am forwarding your request to Mike Molen of Ceramic Tile Supply in Oceanside CA. If anyone knows, it is he. Armen Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
replacing a 5 month old tile shower Aug 16, 2010 03:07 AM
(Total replies: 104)
Remember, no green-board or lavender-board in any wet areas. Make sure you use the correct size "Metal Lag shields" to fasten your lag screws into. Do not go directly into the stucco, unless you are sure there is a wall stud at the exact location. Armen Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
choice of countertop tile? Aug 14, 2010 02:57 PM
(Total replies: 1)
First off, you must have to like this Rustic Look", and I have done installations like this for my own customers in the past; however you must use a non-toxic sealer in food preparation areas and when selecting a sealer look for the warning "do not use in food areas" or "it is acceptable in food areas". You could seal the tiles before grouting, as many installers do, but not to influence you or upset your installer, I prefer to grout unsealed, so I can better build up the grout to tile height. Of course, care must be taken not to let the grout stay on the porous surface too long before washing and a good way to extend this time is to soak the tiles with as much water as they can handle without puddles before you grout. The water in the tiles seals up the pores long enough for the grouting to be completed. However, it does take a "tad" of experience. There are heavy-duty sealers made especially for these tiles. However it might be best for you to look for a sealer that says you can touch up as necessary without stripping first. This way it can always look like new, with only a little maintenance. The small cavities can be filled or left open by covering those spots with Duct Tape before grouting; however, it does not take much brainpower to understand how microbes can fester in such open cavities in a food preparation area, so think twice, and protect as necessary. Armen Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
cement board and drywall seam tape? Aug 10, 2010 04:47 AM
(Total replies: 4)
Edited by spacerman on Aug 10, 2010 at 04:49 AM
Questions and Answers »
cement board and drywall seam tape? Aug 10, 2010 04:46 AM
(Total replies: 4)
If the upper part of your installation is in a wet area, "Greenboard" is not a suitable substrate and it should be repalaced with DuRock or any brand of industry "approved" underlayment. The seam between two substrates must have an 1/8" air gap that will be filled with thin-set mortar then taped with a alkali resistant material and re-coated with a thin film of thin-set mortar. "Greenboard" has been "banned" from use in any "wet" areas of tile installations. I do not quite undersand exactly where you might use "j-bead". Is it your intent to terminate your installation using it? If so where? Please explain. Armen Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Aug 10, 2010 at 04:56 AM
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
Avoiding Golf Course Problems Aug 5, 2010 12:43 AM
(Total replies: 1)
Since I know nothing about Golf, your comments are way over my head and, I am wondering why you are posting your thoughts on this tile question and answer forum. Since there are many avid golfers out there, I will let it slide this time, since knowledge is power whether it is golfing, fishing, or tiling, and my motto: "Work Harder and Smarter" applies to all aspects of work as well as play. A "Harder Working Golfer can be a better Golfer, if he Works Smarter as well", and so on. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Discoloration of grout and orange "haze" Jul 30, 2010 06:17 PM
(Total replies: 25)
Holly may or may nor return to review questions on our forum. In the meantime, since I personally know most of the technical reps who work for "Mapei", if you just give me only the first name or initials of the rep you spoke with, I can tell you (in my estimation) if this person is the type to "pass the buck". You can give the information here on the forum, or by private e-mail to me at: spacerman@tavytools.com "Laticrete", as well as "Mapei" have impeccable production standards, and their field reps are experienced technitions with instructions not to "fluff off" customers with lame excuses. They are always ready to "step up to the plate" and pay claims that are the a direct "fault" of an installation product that they sell, however infrequent that possibility is. Everything we purchase today is made, harvested or packaged by "humans", and honest mistakes can be made by them, or by the machines that they operate, or have control over. Please be friendly to the rep, and he in turn will give you your due respect. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Jul 30, 2010 at 06:19 PM
Questions and Answers »
Discoloration of grout and orange "haze" Jul 30, 2010 01:42 PM
(Total replies: 25)
All the "Mapei" reps are seasoned professionals, and as such, their first reaction to a photo showing the mold growth, mastic delaminating and the backerboard sitting on top of the raised lip would be, as you said, “to pass the blame", and rightfully so, because there were many issues with this "un-professional" installation that I have gone over many times. Substrates for tile, cement board "mud and wire installations" or any other approved “wet” area boards, must be installed in front of the tub's raised lip, and raised ¼ of an inch and the reason for the ¼” is to limit natural wicking. "Organic" Mastics of any kind or brand will eventually emulsify in wet areas and this is the reason that they must never be used in such. And yes, a tad of water could wick up a cement backerboard, but not enough in a tub or a stall shower surround to cause any problems with a properly installed installation. Any slight wicking of moisture up a cement backerboard would “drain” (not literally) in the same manner, soon after the shower ends. When mastics are used, especially as they were in the “wet” area, the use of silicone below the first course of tile actually did more harm than good, because the trapped condensation that obviously formed behind the tiles, besides other damage, caused emulsification of the mastic, as was depicted in the photo. I never mean to be harsh with DIYs with complaints, because they "Tried", and that is why I dedicate my time to this forum. However, the majority of complaints are usually "installer” related, and not because of “faulty” products, and I do commend the DIY who tries to do his/her own installation, because a successful installation "done by ones self" is "one to be proud of". The "Mapei" Company is usually very gracious by agreeing to inspect product complaints from customers, but do not blame them if their mastic was used in “wet areas”, and if your faulty installation was preformed by a contractor, try to get your money back from these, oh so many, less than professional, un-informed, and poorly trained incompetents, that pose as professionals. Always get at least 3 references, AND Call All Of Them. If you plan to do your own work, do a lot of research before wasting time and hard earned money. If you did your own installation, and your problems were the end result of trying to duplicate what you may have seen on one of the HGTV or DIY TV Remodeling programs, you must remember that these people do a great job as actors, but they are not trained certified tile professionals, and as such, just about every installation that is performed on those “Entertaining” programs is Doomed For Failure, and SOONER, Rather Than Later. Armen Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Jul 30, 2010 at 02:40 PM Edited by spacerman on Jul 30, 2010 at 02:41 PM
Questions and Answers »
discontinued daltile Jul 28, 2010 01:27 AM
(Total replies: 2)
Your request is also out there for all to see, but you have also failed to give quantities needed. Armen Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
CERAMICA DAVINCI 12X12 TILES : shade 05 Maui Jul 28, 2010 01:25 AM
(Total replies: 1)
The word is out, now let us see if there is someone out there that can help you! Along with the request to locate this tile, it always saves back and forth time if you can also give the quantities you are looking for. Armen Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Grout Admix Jul 26, 2010 12:06 AM
(Total replies: 2)
The milky liquid you are referring to is a grout "admix", which is liquid latex used to add strength, flexibility and some color “fastness” to a dry grout; it is also not a "big secret". It is used in place of water to reinforce grout, and in some cases a thicker viscosity cement mortar additive can be used if diluted up to 50 %; Here in the states, we have a new product called "Grout Boost", and according to the manufacturer, it can be added to any existing grout, modified or un-modified. It adds additional protection and some "flexibility" as well as "sealing the grout" to help keep it cleaner. I am wondering what your big concern is for needing a grout "admix". Just about all the grouts manufactured in the USA are modified with dry polymers that work almost as well as a liquid "admix". Once water is added to the dry grout powder and polymer mixture, the dry polymers in the mix turn into a liquid latex, similar to the "admix" you are referring to. "Mapei" is a name brand grout (home office in Italy) that already has dry polymers mixed in with the grout powder. It is available all over the world, including most of Europe, and is considered one of the best grouts made today. My name is Armen Tavy, and on this tile forum I am considered "The Tile Doctor" when it comes to tile related questions, and you can reach me with personal mail messages any time you desire at: spacerman@tavytools.com; however, we appreciate any questions that you put forth to me are also repeated on this forum so all can benefit from the question and the solution I provide. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
I would like to lay split bricks over an 83 year old concrete patio Jul 21, 2010 02:42 PM
(Total replies: 15)
The post just before yours, "Moving a floor drain in a concrete slab". As far as legends go, I consider myself rather unique. I set tile for over 43 years on my hands and knees, and because “Necessity is the Mother of Invention”, I invented my “TAVY” brand Ceramic tile and Marble Tile Spacers in the summer of 1992. I found a very great patent attorney who helped me apply for a patent and received it in February 1994. He said" Armen, don't hang the patent on a wall and admire it, because it won't make any money for you there, so I took his advice and “roamed” the "planet" looking for start-up capital with absolutely no luck. It was three years later, and strictly by chance because of my unusual phone number 1-800-FOR-TAVY, that I received a phone call from a prospective investor who had heard about my quest. After two short meetings in April of 1997, we shook hands and we have been partners ever since. It takes the combination of a marketable product, funding, and tenacity to get anywhere in the business world, and since I was a expert in the first and the latter, all it took was "thousands" of phone calls for those next 3 years to establish a "beachhead". The rest is history, and should I be proud of my accomplishments? Well you be the judge. Instead of retiring at age "64.5" in April of 97, I started a marketing business with very little money and no marketing savvy, and with the help of my associates, built it into a successful small business with national sales in the Millions of dollars. Today at age "77.75" I stay active in the "PR" end of my business, and besides tending my own booths at Trade Shows, answering phone calls from customers with questions about my "Amazing" TAVY "Thin-Skin" Ceramic Tile Underlayment, and replying to tile related questions on-line from people all over the USA and other parts of the world, on two very popular tile help forums, "The Tile Doctor" and "Ask The Tile Man", my days are pretty full; but that is good, because it keeps me in great "shape" mentally, which also compliments my healthy "body" and "good" looks. The future remains very bright, and I will be marketing several new tile related inventions of mine before the end of the year. My driving motto is just a bit of a twist of a well known one which is: "Work Smarter Not Harder; my "twist" to the saying is, and continues to be, "WORK HARDER AND SMARTER" I probably should contact the "Guinness" People to see if I qualify for membership in their publication, because as far as I know, I am the only person in the world, who instead of retiring at age 65, started a new business with his name and a prominent photograph of himself on a retail product that is currently sold in every Lowe's Store in the chain, as well as by many other fine independent tile retailers coast to coast, border to border. My TAVY Spacers are even sold in Japan. The only other person who I feel came close to my claim was Colonel Sanders, and the only slight difference there was that the picture of him on his product was not an actual photograph. There is no magic formula in purchasing "Ditra" for a discount. My suggestion would be to go on line an "browse" or find a "Ditra" retailer who may give you a break because of the volume. "Google" Ditra for sources and see what develops. I am "blessed", Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Jul 22, 2010 at 01:08 AM
Questions and Answers »
Moving Floor Drain in a Concrete Slab Jul 21, 2010 02:15 AM
(Total replies: 18)
Properly installed tiles on a concrete slab can never be damaged by water. You must remove all of the tiles that are in the way of the curb. The curb should be constructed of pressure treated lumber. If possible, you could cut the tiles at the exact location of the planned location of the outside "rough wall" of the planned curb. The cutting of the tiles at the front of the "rough" curb need not be perfect, since you will be adding waterproofing, wire lath, cement and tile to the face of the curb. The curb is best built out of 2" x 6" boards set on edge with a 1/2" layer of exterior glue plywood sandwiched in-between the two boards. The boards should be toenailed with Alkali Resistant nails at the end walls of the curb as well as fastening the three parts together. DO NOT EVER Use Cement Backerboards (CBU) on any portion of a shower curb. Thickness of the "rough curb" at this point would be 3 1/2 + inches. Adding waterproofing membrane, a galvanized "wire basket' for the inner framework for the cement and the addition of the cement, will add another inch on both sides, to make the curb appox. 5 1/2" thick before tile. You do not have to remove the 2" x 6" blocking, all you have to do is build it up with additional boards (neatness is not necessary). Scrap 2" x 4" stacked flat on the 2 x 6s will do. Total height of the liner off the slab should be no less than 8 1/2", with the max 12" and no fasteners below 8 inches. The liner should be folded neatly in the corners and over the curb; ask for "tip and tricks" if you do not know how. The easiest way to straighten out a wall and/or correct for a ninety degree angle in the corner/s, is to add 1" x 3" pine boards to the sides of each stud on the wall/s you intend to correct. Use a framing square to correct the corners and a straight edge (a carpenters level will do) held against the walls to help plumb and align the new boards you will attach to the existing wall studs that are out of alignment, and nail or screw the new boards from their sides into the existing studs to properly plumb them and flatten the face of the wall. When fastening Cement Backerboards (CBU) to the studs, I always use a sub-flooring adhesive on the studs, in addition to the Alkali Resistant fasteners, to attach the CBU. I also use the flat side of a mortar installation trowel or a plastering trowel to "skim coat" the entire CBU installation with a very thin plaster coating (use preasure when applying) of modified thin-set mortar to assure that there are no "bond breakers" anywhere on the surfaces of the CBU. Always leave a 1//8" gap between all cement boards in all directions and in the corners that will later be filled with modified thin-set mortar followed by strips of Alkali Resistant Fiberglass Tape. The tape installation will also be covered with thin-set mortar. If you are confused as to the proper installation of the vinyl liner, please ask, and you shall receive. The installation of the CBU on the walls must be planned so their bottoms will not come in direct contact with the "dry pack" you will install on the floor. REMEMBER, the floor must be "pitched" to the drain before the liner is installed. That is the best I can do, unless I catch a plane and give you an "old" hand. You have done well so far, and as an instructor, I give you an "A +" for your efforts. If you ever watch the HGTV and DIY bathroom renovation shows, PLEASE NEVER COPY WHAT THEY DO!!! Just about every installation that they complete on those programs are doomed for failure, and very soon after the installation. These shows are basicly for entertainment, not "Knowledge". I have offered to help them, but they ignore my e-mails. It is a shame. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy
Tile Forum/Advice Board »
I would like to lay split bricks over an 83 year old concrete patio Jul 21, 2010 12:48 AM
(Total replies: 15)
You could; however, you must complete the last row all the way across and leave enough "inches" of the Ditra exposed (and protected) so you can overlap or seal as necessary the next section/s, when you wish to commence tiling again. If, your intent is to use the Ditra to "waterproof", as well as giving you a flat installation, you must follow their installation instructions to the "T". Assuming that you are going to use the "running bond" pattern for your bricks, you might consider installing the bricks parallel to the pitch to facilitate better drainage for water, rain and melting snow "should it ever occur". I have visited the San Francisco area many times, and my personal feeling is that I did not move to California with the intention of wearing a "sweater". By the by, my TAVY "Thin-Skin" Ceramic Tile Underlayment is in stock in all 12 of the Lowe's Stores in the greater San Francisco. I also have grandson number 3 attending USCSF as a graduate student working towards his Doctorate. He knows as much about Chemistry as I know about Tile and then some. There are many "gifted" members of my extended family; I am so blessed. Armen Tavy Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Jul 21, 2010 at 12:50 AM
Questions and Answers »
Kitchen sink replacement in a tiled countertop Jul 19, 2010 05:55 PM
(Total replies: 5)
You never know what help there is right around the corner even when your not looking for it. If someone were to take the time to read every single post and all my replies for the last 2 years on this forum, they could possible become a pretttttty good "Tileman" and the only thing that they would lack is the actual "hands on experience" but, because "Knowledge is Power", they would overcome the main hurdle, and their ability to follow explicit directions from people like myself can set them apart from the ones who rely on "costly guesswork". Armen Tavy, 77.8 years young, and I keep on ticking; and I love to share "The Power of my Knowledge" with all who are willing to ask, and then "listen". Armen Tavy
Questions and Answers »
Moving Floor Drain in a Concrete Slab Jul 18, 2010 03:15 PM
(Total replies: 18)
That "loose" 3" of sand as well as the "loose" 3" of gravel will compress dramatically as you” tamp" to less than half of the 6”. "Sprinkling" the "dirt" with water before tamping will also increase compaction. Let the sand and gravel spread sideways under the old slab several inches, and the use of a plastic moisture barrier is not relevant in this small area. In addition, "Deck Mud” will not do the job here. If you are concerned about the difficulty of a future tear out, wrap the PVC waste lines loosely with plastic. I do not remember any mentioning of cracks in the past, but if all of the precautions in the next paragraph are observed, it will save “a lot of floors” and protect the integrity of any brand “dry grout”. I am not familiar with “Quickrete FastSet Grout”, but novices should stay with the tried and true, and "Mapei" Grout happens to be my favorite; and it dries hard and true rather quickly without all the "mumbo jumbo". ALWAYS thoroughly mix the ENTIRE dry powder contents of any bag of “dry thin-set mortar” or “dry grout” before using ONLY a portion of the bag's contents for repairs or smaller jobs. Disregarding expired use dates, "lumps" in the bag, failure to pre-mix all the dry ingredients, too much water in the mix (must be potable water), and less than 2 minutes of a low + - 300 rpm "mixing time", with a 10 minute slake "wait" before re-mixing, are the major causes of grout as well as mortar bonding failures. Skipping just one of the latter precautions can be disastrous to an installation. My passion for this trade must be obvious to all members, new and old who visit this forum, so always remember to be in compliance with all the industry (and my) rules because, "I am looking over all your shoulders". As far as my "TAVY"ceramic "tool" inventions, I designed them to help everyone do a better job. You are also a great photographer, so keep those photos coming as you progress in each step of your installation, so I can "cretique" your techniques. Every member and guest to our tile forum is learning from your experience. Armen Armen Tavy Edited by spacerman on Jul 18, 2010 at 03:23 PM |
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