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Welcome to ceilings. This section will detail the installation of ceramic or stone tile on a ceiling.
The acceptable methods are mortar, backer-board, Drywall, and in some cases metal or other laminates. The point is to select the best substrate for the application of tile within the budget.
The following photos detail the application of a fiber-cement product backer-board. This ceiling was installed over a new three-walled shower that consisted of a one-coat mortar bed over solid backing. For more on that installation go to showers.
In the past, ceilings were treated as any other surface. A mortar bed would have been installed and tiled as any other wall surface. I chose the backer-board method for this job to show its application here and because they are good products well suited for this installation.
The caveat for backer-boards is that the framing must be nearly perfect on its level and on-plane characteristics. In other words, all the framing members must line up and be as close to level as possible.
To accomplish this, the installer will need a trusted spirit level and a straight edge if the level is not of sufficient length to span all the studs at once. The framing members are installed at the desired height and leveled one to another. Then the straight edge is used to align the members on to another.
Dr's tip: Time, care, and patience are very important here. With any backer-board or drywall installation, the framing members will reflect any deviation right through the tile. This is the reason many people want the mortar bed method. A mortar bed can make up for imperfections in the framing.
Nevertheless, in this photo we see the framing members installed level and on plane to one another.
Note that the Manufacturer recommends that wherever there are joints or where the panels terminate, adequate framing must be present. Therefore framing members were added to all perimeter joints and to one in field joint.
The framing was covered with 15 pound roofing felt. This step was recommended by the Manufacturer for wet enclosures.
Note that the felt extends down the walls and is tightly folded into the corners.
 
This step is important later when the wall is prepared for the mortar bed.
The next set of photos detail one of the most popular methods of cutting this product. It is measured and marked, deeply scored with a backer-board scoring tool along a straight edge, and is snapped like drywall.
The edge can be cleaned up with a razor knife if necessary.
The panels can be heavy and cumbersome for a one-man application. This photo details the use of a 2"X4" "dead man" to hold the pane in place while fastening.
The panels are fastened using the manufacturers recommended fasteners and are spaced 6" - 8" on center through the field on the perimeter.
  Note that the manufacturers recommended gaps were left between the panels.
These gaps were filled, taped, and feathered according to manufacturers recommendations.
Since this was nearly a full tile layout, a centerline was penciled in to allow enough room for a trowel pass on both sides.
The point here is to have the grout joints match on all three sides including the front trim of course.
Thin set mortar was "Keyed in", combed out, and the tile was set, beaten in, aligned and spaced. If there was a food time to use spacers, ceilings are it. The spacers, however, must be removed prior to grouting.
These steps are then repeated on the other half.
This photo details the finished ceiling of the shower complete with the trim.
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